What is herringbone twill?
Herringbone twill: also called mountain twill, the name of woven fabric. One of the variations of twill weave, mountain twill is based on twill weave, changing the direction of the twill lines so that half of them tilt to the right and half to the left, forming a symmetrical continuous mountain twill on the surface of the fabric.
Two twills in opposite directions on a fabric give the fabric a herringbone style.
What are the classifications of herringbone twill?
According to the weave, it can be divided into single-sided herringbone and double-sided herringbone. Among them, single-sided herringbone has three-piece herringbone and four-piece herringbone, that is, the weave is 2/1 herringbone (example UN30129) and 3/ 1 herringbone (example C-088), the double-sided herringbone weave is 2/2 herringbone (example C-043), or a variation of herringbone (example UN30293) can be formed, depending on the yarn style. Can form bamboo herringbone (example UN30118). Herringbone twill can also be classified by ingredients.
What kinds of weaves are there in herringbone twill?
Warp-shaped twill: A structure that changes the positive and negative signs of the warp direction so that the peaks of the mountain-shaped twill point toward the warp direction, which is called warp-shaped twill.
Mountain-shaped twill: A weave that changes the positive and negative signs of the weft twill so that the peaks of the mountain-shaped twill point toward the weft direction, is called mountain-shaped twill.
How to draw herringbone twill?
1. Determine the basic weave: Usually the original weave twill, reinforced twill and composite twill are used as the basic weave of the mountain-shaped twill weave; (the flying number is ±1, first positive then negative, or first negative then positive)
2. Determine the organizational cycle:
For the gable twill: first determine the number of warp threads Kj before the twill line changes direction.
Rj = 2 Kj - 2
Rw = number of weave cycles of the basic weave (number of weft cycles)
For mountain-shaped twill: first determine the number of weft threads Kw before the twill line changes direction.
Rj = tissue cycle number of basic tissue (number of cycles)
Rw = 2 Kw - 2
3. Fill in the tissue chart: (taking the mountain-shaped twill tissue as an example)
① The 1st warp yarn to the Kjth warp yarn are filled in according to the floating and sinking rules of the basic structure;
② Starting from the (Kj + 1)th warp yarn, fill in the weave points according to the twill direction opposite to the basic weave, and the number will be positive first and then negative (first negative then positive) until a weave cycle is completed;
The mountain-shaped twill weave adopts the mountain-shaped threading method, and the number of heddles is equal to the number of heddles of the basic weave.
The mountain twill weave is widely used, such as herringbone cloth in cotton fabrics, coat cloth in wool fabrics, women's cloth, etc. Mainly used in clothing fabrics and decorative fabrics.
Characteristics of herringbone twill (mountain-shaped twill): with the peak (or valley) as the axis, both sides are symmetrical. Due to the organization relationship of herringbone twill, the fabric has clear texture, strong visual sense, full texture, strong wear resistance and tightness, thick and stiff texture.
The purpose of herringbone twill: Herringbone is a fabric pattern. Its English name comes from herring bones. The Chinese "herringbone" interprets it more vividly, just like the character "人", which is easy to identify. , it is widely used in life: from pavement tiles to wood grain, from floor tiles to wallpaper, from jewelry to textiles, herringbone patterns can be seen everywhere. Suitable for coats, jackets and trousers, etc.
In men's clothing, suits, sports coats, coats, trousers, morning coats, tuxedos, shirts, ties, suspenders, top hats, peaked caps, scarves, there are shadows of herringbone pattern everywhere, and its graphics can also be woven into sweaters or polo shirts. On the shirt.
In women's clothing, herringbone patterns add a touch of gentle dynamics to autumn and winter, interpreting their own elegance and vitality, adding a retro British style, and making them more intellectual and age-reducing. This type of fabric is mostly herringbone, which is relatively thick and can be used to make coats, suits and other clothing. In the cold autumn and winter, the gorgeous herringbone pattern climbs onto the warm and stylish woolen coat, fully interpreting nostalgia and romance, making beauty simple, delicate and fashionable.