Explain plain, twill and satin at once
The original weave is the basic plain weave, twill weave and satin weave that constitute other weaves in the woven fabric weave
The original weave of woven fabrics includes plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Various changing weaves, joint weaves, complex weaves, and jacquard weaves are changed and combined on the basis of these three, which are also called "three original weaves".
01
plain weave
Plain weave: The weaving of warp and weft yarns is called plain weave.
Plain weave fabric characteristics
① The number of interweaving times (points) is the most, making the fabric firm, wear-resistant, hard to the touch, less elastic and less glossy.
Because the warp and weft yarns of the plain weave are interlaced every other time, the same number of warp and weft yarns are arranged in the plane, the number of interweaving times is the largest, the yarn buckling is the most, and the floating length is the shortest. Make the fabric firm, wear-resistant, stiff and flat, but less elastic and less lustrous. Because the warp and weft yarns are interlaced many times, the yarns are not easy to be too close, so the density of the fabric is generally not too large.
② The appearance effect of the front and back is the same, the surface is flat, and the pattern is monotonous.
③Under the same specification, it is the lightest and thinnest compared with other fabrics.
④The fabric is not easy to brush and has good snagging resistance.
⑤ Minimal weaving density (poor compactness), easy to disassemble.
Because the warp and weft yarns are interlaced many times, the yarns are not easy to be too close, so the density of the fabric is generally not too large.
common plain weave
Cotton fabric varieties: plain cloth, poplin;
Varieties of wool fabrics: Varitin, Palis, thin tweed;
Silk fabric varieties: electric spinning, georgette, taffeta, crepe chine;
Linen fabric varieties: linen, linen;
Varieties of chemical fiber fabrics: rayon (viscose plain cloth), polyester spinning, etc.
02
Twill weave: The weave in which the weave points (or weft weave points) continuously form oblique lines is called twill weave.
According to the direction of the grain, the one from the lower left to the upper right is a right slanted grain, which is represented by ↗; the one which is from the lower right to the upper left is a left slanted grain, which is represented by ↖.
Twill fabric characteristics
Compared with plain weave, twill weave has less interweaving points in the weave cycle, has floating long lines, and the fabric has higher density (that is, twill weave has higher warp and weft density than plain weave), and the fabric is soft. The gloss is better, but the fastness is not as good as plain weave.
① The appearance of the front and back is different, such as the front ↗ and the back ↖
② The number of interweaving times is less than that of plain weave, and the fabric feels softer.
③The fabric is thicker and denser than plain weave. Gloss, elasticity, and wrinkle resistance are better than plain weave.
④Abrasion resistance and fastness are not as good as plain weave fabrics
common twill fabric
Cotton fabrics: twill, khaki, denim;
Wool fabrics: serge, gabardine, what flavor, uniform;
Silk fabrics: silk twill, beautiful silk, etc.
03
satin weave
The interlacing of warp yarn and weft yarn occurs every interval of more than four yarns, and these interlacing points are independent, mutually discontinuous, and evenly distributed in a tissue cycle. Classification of long warp or weft floating lines on the surface of the fabric
Warp Satin: There are more warp points than weft points. Or the front of the fabric is mostly called warp satin.
Weft satin: There are more weft points than warp points. Or the front of the fabric is called weft satin with most of the weft float.
Features of satin fabric
The surface of satin weave fabric is flat, smooth and shiny. The front and back have different appearances, each presenting a type of yarn. Because longer floats can form a bright surface, it is easier to reflect light, especially when bright filament yarns with small twists are used, this effect is more intense.
Because the interweaving points of satin weave are far apart, the individual weaving points are covered by floating long lines on both sides, and no obvious interweaving points can be seen on the front, so it has the following characteristics:
①Warp or weft floats are long and easy to rub, fluff and snag.
②Warp and weft yarns have the least interweaving points, and the weaving density is the highest. Satin weave is thicker than plain weave and twill weave, with soft texture and good drapability.
③The surface is smooth and even, full of luster.
Types of common satin weave fabrics
Woolen fabrics: What about dresses?
Cotton fabric: horizontal satin, straight satin.
Silk fabrics: crepe satin, brocade, soft satin.
Comparison of plain weave, twill weave and satin weave
Fastness: plain weave>twill weave>satin weave
Gloss: satin>twill>plain
Softness: satin>twill>plain
Density: satin>twill>plain