Fleece and common pile fabrics
fleece fabric
It refers to the fabric that makes the surface of the fabric have a pile or furry appearance through napping finishing. Both woven fabrics and knitted fabrics have napping finishing.
The purpose of fabric fleece processing is to improve the style and appearance of the fabric, increase the texture and warmth of the fabric surface, make the fabric fluffy and thick, soft to the touch, improve the wearing effect, and increase the added value of the fabric.
The napping of fabrics has a long history. Even in the murals of ancient ruins, slaves can see the scene of scraping the surface of fabrics by hand with combing tools.
The composition of the piled pile fabric is formed by using a system of warp or weft yarns and ground fabrics. These warp or weft yarns are cut or partially cut after finishing, and the cut yarn ends form vertical plush on the fabric surface.
Common fabrics:
Warp yarn constitutes plush - warp velveteen, plush
Weft yarn constitutes plush - weft velveteen, corduroy (corduroy)
Fleece
Composition: This type of fabric is a fabric formed by interweaving two systems of warp yarns (pile warp and ground warp) and one system of weft yarns, and then cut pile.
Features: The plush is plump and smooth, with soft luster, soft touch, good elasticity, no crepe, and good warmth retention; because the plush is in contact with the outside world, it has good wear resistance.
Uses: It is suitable for women's and children's autumn and winter clothing, as well as shoes and hats; it can also be used as curtains, train seat cushions, exquisite and precious instruments and decoration boxes; plush can be used as men's and women's clothing, hat materials, coat collars, etc. .
Velveteen
Velveteen is woven with pile tissue and then finished with cut pile. The surface has dense, even, tall and shiny fluff, so it is called velveteen. The warp and weft yarns of velveteen are all made of high-quality cotton yarns. The velveteen pile is plump and flat, thick in texture, soft to the touch, soft in luster, wear-resistant and durable, good in warmth retention, high in elasticity, and not easy to wrinkle. According to different pile yarns, it is divided into warp velveteen (cut warp velveteen) and weft velveteen (cut weft velveteen).
Velveteen features:
1. The wear resistance is 4-5 times higher than that of ordinary fabrics. Because the surface of the velveteen fabric is the fiber section in contact with the outside world, it avoids friction on the bottom of the fabric
2. The surface of velveteen is densely covered with upright fluff, so it feels soft and elastic, has a soft luster, and the surface is not easy to wrinkle.
3. The cloth body is thick, and the fluff on the surface can form an air layer, so it has good warmth retention.
Velveteen
The warp yarn is piled up, and two sets of warp yarns (ground warp and velvet warp) and one set of weft yarns are interwoven into a double-layer fabric. After cutting the pile, it becomes two single-layer warp velveteen with smooth fluff. The velveteen ground weave generally adopts Plain weave and velvet warp are mainly consolidated by V-shaped bonding method, and the arrangement ratio of ground warp and velvet warp is 2:1 and 1:1. Warp velveteen is divided into train velveteen and mercerized velveteen according to the length of the hair. Train velveteen has longer piles and is often used as train seat cushions; mercerized velveteen has shorter piles and is treated with mercerizing to make the cloth surface bright, and is often used as clothing, military collar badges and decorations.
plush
Fur-like napped fabric with fluff on the cloth surface, commonly known as "sea tiger velvet". The front is evenly covered by dense wool fibers, and the suede is plump and smooth, rich in lightness and elasticity, and has good thermal performance.
The length of the fluff is generally between 3 and 20 mm. It is mainly used to make coats, linings, collars, winter hats, plush toys, and can also be used for interior decoration and industry.
Weft fleece
Composition: The weft pile fabric is composed of one system of warp yarns and two systems of weft yarns interlaced. Two systems of weft yarns, one for ground weft and one for pile weft.
Ground weft: the ground fabric interwoven with the warp yarns to form the fabric, the function is to consolidate the plush and determine the fastness of the fabric;
Pile and weft: interwoven with warp yarns of the same system, and covered on the surface of the fabric in the form of floating long threads. In the finishing-"cut pile" process, the floating long threads are cut off, and after a certain finishing process, plush is formed on the surface of the fabric .
Raising method:
① Wool opening method: Use a cashmere cutting machine to cut off the floating long lines on the cashmere blank, and then make the twist of the cashmere weft exhausted, so that the fibers form a towering pile on the surface of the fabric.
Such as: corduroy fabric, weft velveteen fabric
②Napping method: Cover the velvet blank on the rotating napping roller, make the velvet blank and the roller move relative to each other, and gradually pull out the fibers in the velvet weft until the velvet weft is broken. the
Such as: copy flower coat
corduroy
Appearance and Features
On the surface of corduroy, there are towering piles arranged in vertical strips. The appearance of the piles is round, resembling rushes. It has the characteristics of high fastness, high breaking strength, good air permeability and moisture absorption, and good drape feeling.
During the wearing process of the corduroy fabric, its fluff part is in contact with the outside world, especially the elbows, necklines, cuffs, knees and other parts of the clothing are subject to external friction for a long time, and the fluff is easy to fall off.
Uses: Used for making clothes, shoes and hats for men, women and children in spring, autumn and winter.
GIF cover
Classification of corduroy fabric:
① According to the width of the velvet formed by the appearance of the fabric, it is divided into:
Extra-fine corduroy: those with more than 20 longitudinal corduroys within 25mm;
Fine corduroy: those with more than 11 longitudinal corduroys within 25mm;
Middle strip corduroy: those with 9-11 longitudinal strips within 25mm;
Corduroy with thick strips: those with 6-8 longitudinal strips within 25mm;
Corduroy with wide strips: Those with less than 6 longitudinal strips within 25mm.
② According to the structure of warp and weft yarns, it can be divided into:
Full line corduroy, half line corduroy
③According to the different forms of summarization, it can be divided into:
Jacquard corduroy, general corduroy
④ According to different printing and dyeing processing methods, it is divided into:
Printed corduroy, yarn-dyed corduroy
⑤ According to the different raw materials of the yarn, it is divided into:
Pure cotton, pure wool, polyester cotton and other corduroy
Weft velveteen
It is piled with weft yarns, which are interwoven with one set of warp yarns and two sets of weft yarns (ground weft and pile weft), similar to corduroy. Plain weave is mostly used for ground tissue, and twill weave is also useful. The V-shaped consolidation method is generally used for fluff consolidation, and the arrangement ratio of the ground weft and the pile weft is 1:3. The difference between it and corduroy is that the weft weft points are evenly arranged in a certain order, and the floating points are staggered from each other. Therefore, the weft density can be larger than that of corduroy, the fabric is tight, and the fluff is full.
Uses: Weft velveteen is mainly used for clothing and decoration.