How to distinguish knitted and woven fabrics?
Due to the different weaving methods, knitted fabrics and woven fabrics have their own unique characteristics in terms of processing technology, fabric structure, fabric characteristics and finished product uses. Here are some comparisons. Knitting and woven can be distinguished from four aspects
- basic concept -
(1) Knitted fabric knitting refers to the process of using knitting needles to form coils of various raw materials and varieties of yarns, and then connecting them into knitted fabrics through string sleeves. It can be done horizontally or vertically, weaving horizontally is called weft knitting, while weaving longitudinally is called warp knitting.
The loop is the smallest basic unit of knitted fabrics, and the loop is composed of a loop stem and an extension line in a space curve.
(2) Woven fabric Woven fabric is formed by interweaving two or more sets of mutually perpendicular yarns at a 90-degree angle as warp and weft. The longitudinal yarns are called warp yarns and the horizontal yarns are called weft yarns.
Each intersection point between warp and weft is called weave point, which is the smallest basic unit of woven fabric.
- Fabric weave properties -
(1) Knitted fabrics are formed by bending yarns in space, and each coil is composed of one yarn. When the knitted fabric is subjected to external tension, such as longitudinal stretching, the bending of the coils changes, while the coils The height also increases, while the width of the loop decreases. If the tension is transverse stretching, the situation is reversed. The height and width of the loop are obviously interchangeable under different tension conditions, so the knitted fabric has great extensibility. It can extend in all directions and has good elasticity. Because the knitted fabric is formed by hole-like coils, it has great air permeability and soft hand feeling.
(2) The woven fabric is slightly curved due to the interweaving of the warp and weft yarns, and is only bent in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the fabric. The degree of curvature is related to the mutual tension between the warp and weft yarns and the stiffness of the yarns. When the woven fabric is subjected to external tension, such as stretching in the longitudinal direction, the tension of the warp yarn increases, and the bending decreases, while the bending of the weft yarn increases, such as longitudinal stretching, until the warp yarn is completely straightened, and the fabric shrinks laterally. When the woven fabric is stretched horizontally by external tension, the tension of the weft increases, the bending decreases, and the bending of the warp increases. If the horizontal stretching continues, until the weft is completely straightened, the fabric shrinks longitudinally. The warp and weft yarns will not be converted, unlike knitted fabrics. The warp and weft yarns of woven fabrics have little relationship with stretching and shrinkage, and there is no conversion, so the fabric is generally tight and stiff.
- Organization structure -
(1) Knitted knitted fabrics have a corresponding organizational structure, including: A. Basic organization. Plain stitches, ribbed stitches, and double-sided stitches B. Change stitches. Including changing plain stitches, double rib stitches, etc. C. Design and color stitches ① Plain stitches are the simplest stitches in knitted fabrics, which are formed by continuous unit coils unidirectionally strung together. Creates a different look on the front and back of the fabric. The tissue has great lateral extensibility, but is easy to curl and fall off, and is widely used in underwear, outerwear and various socks. ②Rib weave is a kind of double-sided weave, which is composed of front wales and back wales. According to the number of front and back wales arranged alternately, rib weaves with different names and properties. Rib weave has good elasticity, and is mostly used in various underwear products and clothing parts that require stretchability (such as the hem, cuffs and necklines of clothes, and stretch shirts, etc.) , as shown in the figure below, it is composed of front stitch courses and back stitch rows arranged alternately, and different combination methods can be used to form concave and convex stripes or patterns. The tissue has the characteristics of longitudinal and transverse extensibility and similar elasticity, and is mostly used in shaped products such as sweaters, sweatshirts or children's clothing.
(2) Woven Woven fabrics are formed by interlacing yarns in the warp and weft directions on a loom in the form of shuttles. Generally, there are three types of weaves: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave and their changes. ① Plain weave The organization formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns up and down is called plain weave. Plain weave is the simplest of all fabric weaves. ②Twill weave The weave in which the weave points (or weft weave points) continuously form oblique lines is called twill weave. The surface of the twill fabric has diagonal lines formed by warp points (or weft points). ③Single and discontinuous warp weave points (or weft weave points) of satin weave are regularly and evenly distributed in the weave cycle, such a weave is called satin weave. The surface of the fabric shows long warp floats (or weft floats), so the surface of the fabric is shiny and feels soft and smooth. ④ The changing organization is formed by the combination of the above three basic organizational changes. Such as mountain twill, sharp twill
- Fabric properties -
Abrasion resistance - knitted fabric < woven fabric
Stretchability - knitted fabric > woven fabric
Comfort - knitted fabric > woven fabric
Warmth retention - knitted fabric > woven fabric
Air permeability - knitted fabric > woven fabric
Tear strength —— knitted fabric > woven fabric
Anti-pilling - knitted fabric < woven fabric
Dimensional stability - knitted fabric < woven fabric