The difference between serge, khaki, twill and gabardine
There are many types of twill fabrics, which can be divided into left twill and right twill according to their diagonal direction. According to the organization, it can be divided into two types: single-sided twill and double-sided twill. Generally, fabrics with warp-side twill or double-sided twill weave. If the warp is Z-twisted yarn, left twill is often used, and warp yarn is S-twisted. Commercially, twill fabric can be divided into twill, serge, khaki and gabardine.
1. Twill fabric: The weave is 2/1, the twill lines are more obvious on the front side, but not so obvious on the back side. The texture of twill is denser and thicker than that of plain cloth, and it feels softer. According to the yarn used, twill is divided into three types: yarn twill, half-line twill and full-line twill. According to the number of yarns, it can be divided into coarse twill and fine twill. Those woven with cotton yarns above 29 tex (below 20 counts) are called coarse twill, and those woven with cotton yarns above 29 tex (above 20 counts) are called fine twill. .
2. Serge: The weave is 2/2 twill weave, and the twill lines on the front and back are similar in degree. The texture of serge is denser and thicker than that of twill. According to the different yarns used, it can be divided into yarn serge, half-thread serge and full-thread serge. Yarn serge is left twill, while half-line serge and full-line serge are right twill.
3. Gabardine: The weave is also 2/2. According to the different yarns used, it can also be divided into yarn gabardine, half-thread gabardine and full-thread gabardine. The same yarn gabardine is left twill, half-line gabardine and full-line gabardine are right twill.
4. Khaki: According to the different types of yarn used, khaki can also be divided into yarn khaki, half-thread khaki and full-thread khaki. Yarn khaki is generally 3/1. Therefore, on its front, the twill lines are thick and obvious, and the back twill lines are not obvious, so it is called single-sided khaki. Half-line khaki and full-line khaki mostly use 2/2, and the front and back have the same texture, so it is called double-sided khaki. Line khaki also adopts 3/1 twill weave, which means that the front right twill line is thicker and more prominent than the 2/2 twill line.
The difference between the four:
Twill: finer lines, 2/1
Serge: The warp and weft yarns have similar tightness, the total tightness is smaller than gabardine, the twill weave is close to 45 degrees, and the texture is soft. 2/2
Gabardine: high warp density, low weft density, overall tightness is greater than serge, less than khaki, thick texture but not hard, twill pattern close to 63 degrees. 2/2
Khaki: high warp density, low weft density, the overall tightness is greater than gabardine, the cloth body is stiff and thick, 3/1, 2/2.