Twill weave and twill fabric
Twill weave The name of the twill weave comes from the oblique lines at a certain angle on the surface of the fabric woven with this weave.
1 Classification of twill weave
The twill weave can be divided into left twill and right twill according to the different diagonal lines.
Left slanted: slanted from upper left to lower right, represented by "↖".
Right slash: slanting from upper right to lower left, represented by "↗".
The twill weave is divided into single-side twill and double-side twill according to the order of ups and downs of the warp and weft points.
Single-sided twill: ①The warp and weft points on the front and back sides are different.
②The latitude and longitude points are the same, but the order of sinking and floating is different.
Double-sided twill: the weaving points and the order of ups and downs on the front and back sides are the same, but the oblique direction is different.
Single-sided twill is divided into warp twill and weft twill
Warp twill: warp weave points > weft weave points
Weft twill weave: points of weft > points of warp
2 Characteristics of twill weave
The fabric of twill weave has the difference between the front and back, because the twill weave has floating long lines, the luster of the fabric surface is brighter than that of plain weave; because of the difference in warp and weft floating length, the effect of external force is that the yarn of a certain system bears The external force of the system is larger than that of the other system, so the strength is lower and the handle is softer.
The front and back of the single-sided twill have different appearance effects. Obvious twill on the front, blurred on the back; double-sided twill has the same appearance effect on the front and back, but has opposite diagonal lines.
3 Characteristics of twill fabric
The number of warp and weft yarns interlaced is less than that of plain weave, so that the gaps between warp and weft yarns are smaller, and the yarns can be arranged closely, so that the fabric is denser, thicker, better in luster, softer in hand, and better in elasticity than plain weave. Under the condition of the same yarn density and thickness, its abrasion resistance and fastness are not as good as plain weave fabrics.
Twill weave fabric is softer, thicker and glossier than plain weave fabric.
Under the condition of the same weaving density and yarn fineness, the fastness is not as good as plain weave fabric.
The twill lines on the surface of the twill weave fabric can achieve clear and obvious or full and prominent lines, even and straight effects according to the twist direction and the ratio of warp and weft density.
Effect of twist direction on fabric appearance
Reflective tape: The yarn segment floating on the surface of the fabric. Under the light irradiation, the reflective part of each fiber is arranged in a belt-shaped area. The reflective area is called reflective tape.
The direction of the light-emitting tape is opposite to the diagonal direction of the fiber: Z-twisted yarn, reflective tape "↖"
S twist yarn, reflective tape "↗"
The effect of reflective tape on the appearance of twill:
When the direction of the reflective tape is consistent with the direction of the twill weave of the fabric, the twill line will stand out clearly. If a clear twill line is not obtained, the twist direction of the supporting surface yarn should be opposite to the direction of the twill weave.
Such as: warp twill, right twill warp yarn adopts S twist, left twill warp yarn adopts Z twist.
Weft twill, right twill weft yarn adopts Z twist, left twill warp yarn adopts S twist.
4 Application of twill weave
Cotton fabrics: twill, khaki, serge, gabardine, etc.
Silk fabrics: beautiful silk, twill silk, etc.
Wool fabrics: worsted woolen serge, gabardine, breeches, chocolate dice and various tweeds, etc.
Melton, navy, uniform, ladies' and tweed in woolen woolen fabrics.