This chapter mainly introduces the properties, characteristics and identification methods of these major categories of clothing fabrics.
Identification of ingredients
The easy way to identify the composition of clothing fabrics is the combustion method. The method is to draw a yarn containing warp and weft yarns at the seam of the garment, ignite it with fire, observe the state of the burning flame, smell the smell of the yarn after burning, and see the residue after burning to judge. Whether it is consistent with the fabric composition marked on the clothing durability label to identify the authenticity of the fabric composition.
1. Cotton fiber and hemp fiber
Both cotton fibers and hemp fibers are flammable when they are close to the flame, burning rapidly, the flame is yellow, and blue smoke is emitted. The difference between the odors emitted by the two during combustion and the ashes after burning is that the burning of cotton gives off the smell of paper, and the burning of hemp gives off the smell of plant ash; after burning, cotton has very little powder ash, which is black or gray, while hemp produces a small amount of off-white powder ash.
2. Wool fiber and silk
When the hair is exposed to fire, it emits smoke, foams when it burns, the burning speed is slow, and it emits a burnt smell of burning hair. When exposed to fire, the silk shrinks into a ball, and the burning speed is slow, accompanied by a sizzling sound, exuding a burning smell of hair, and after burning, it forms black-brown spherical ashes, which are broken when twisted by hand.
3. Nylon and polyester
The scientific name of nylon is polyamide fiber. It quickly crimps and melts into a white gel when near the flame. It melts and drips and foams in the flame. There is no flame when burning. It is difficult to continue to burn when it leaves the flame. Things are not easily crushed. The scientific name of polyester is polyester fiber. It is easy to ignite, and it melts near the flame. When burning, it melts and emits black smoke. It has a yellow flame and emits a fragrant smell.
Fourth, acrylic and polypropylene
The scientific name of acrylic fiber is polyacrylonitrile fiber. It softens and shrinks near fire, emits black smoke after ignition, and the flame turns white. . The scientific name of polypropylene fiber is polypropylene fiber. It melts near the flame and is flammable. It burns slowly and emits black smoke from the fire. The upper end of the flame is yellow and the lower end is blue. broken.
Five, vinylon and vinylon
The scientific name of vinylon is polyvinyl formal fiber. It is not easy to ignite. It melts and shrinks near the flame. When burning, there is a little flame at the top. When the fiber is melted into a jelly, the flame becomes larger, there is thick black smoke, and it emits a bitter smell. After burning, it remains black. Small bead-like particles that can be crushed with fingers. The scientific name of polyvinyl chloride fiber is polyvinyl chloride fiber. It is difficult to burn, and it will be extinguished immediately after leaving the fire. The flame is yellow, and the lower end is green and white smoke.
6. Spandex and Fluorine
The scientific name of spandex is polyurethane fiber. It burns while melting near the fire. When burning, the flame is blue. When it leaves the fire, it continues to melt and burn, giving off a special pungent odor. After burning, the ashes are soft and fluffy black ash. The scientific name of fluorine is polytetrafluoroethylene fiber, which is called fluorite fiber by the ISO organization. It only melts near the flame, is difficult to ignite, and does not burn. The edge flame is blue-green carbonized, melted and decomposed, the gas is poisonous, and the melt is hard and round black. beads. Fluorocarbon fibers are commonly used in the textile industry to make high-performance sewing threads.
Seven, viscose fiber and cupro ammonium fiber
Viscose fiber is flammable, burns very fast, the flame is yellow, the smell of hot paper is dissipated, the ashes are less after burning, and it is a smooth twisted band-shaped light gray or gray-white fine powder. Copper ammonium fiber, commonly known as tiger kapok, burns near the flame, the burning speed is fast, the flame is yellow, and the ester acid smell is emitted.
Bamboo fiber fabric
Bamboo fiber is a natural material with the following characteristics.
1. Look - crystal clear
Pick up the bamboo fiber towel and observe the surface of the towel from all angles under the condition of good light.
2. Touch - soft and comfortable
To the touch, it feels soft and smooth (velvety) and elastic. Put the bamboo fiber towel on your cheek and feel it quietly, you will fully feel that she is very delicate, soft, smooth and comfortable like a baby's skin, such as satin. How does it feel to touch an ordinary towel again? Must be hard, dry, rough. The unique silky forging effect of bamboo fiber towel represents the trend of industry development.
3, shaking - hanging straight
Hold the two corners of one side of the bamboo fiber towel with both hands, lift it up in the air, and shake it a few times. You'll see good movement and verticality, like a beauty's fragrant hair, which is silky smooth and silky smooth. Shaking the ordinary towel again, it can only feel light and floating, and it is difficult to sag. Release your hands and let the two types of towels fall freely from the air onto the bed or table, and look at their respective shapes. You'll find the bamboo fiber towels are piled up softly, with no "boneness". Ordinary towels, on the other hand, are rigidly shaped into a certain geometric shape.
4. Burning - absolutely natural
Take out one or two yarns from the bamboo fiber towel, ignite it with fire, and carefully observe the burning phenomenon. Bamboo fiber burns quickly and thoroughly, with the smell of burning plants, and the ashes turn into gray-white powder and do not form balls. The towel containing chemical fibers has a pungent odor when burned, the ashes turn black, and the phenomenon of balling occurs.
5, wash - self-cleaning and self-cleaning
Wet the bamboo fiber towel (the purpose is to fully activate the bamboo fiber molecules), then pour the soy sauce, cooking oil, etc. on the towel respectively, and then take it under the water pipe to rub and wash without any detergent. You will see a miraculous phenomenon, the soy sauce, cooking oil, etc. are completely washed away by water, and the bamboo fiber towel is still as clean as new. This is because bamboo fiber has super decontamination and oil repellency, self-cleaning and self-cleaning ability. If you still doubt the decontamination ability of bamboo fiber towel, you can use it as a rag for cleaning tableware, let it toss in the oil for a week, and learn more about her miraculous decontamination effect. And if an ordinary towel is used to clean tableware in less than a few days, it will definitely be messy, dirty, extremely difficult to clean, and eventually moldy, sticky, and smelly.
6, cover - not moldy or smelly
Wet a bamboo fiber towel and an ordinary towel with water, put them in two plastic food bags, and put them in an environment of about 30 degrees Celsius for a few days. Then open the bag and take a look and smell it, what do you feel? Bamboo fiber towels are still as fresh as new and have no peculiar smell. Ordinary towels are moldy, sticky, smelly, and even blackened. The reason why the bamboo fiber towel has such a strange function is completely isolated from the antibacterial properties of the bamboo fiber itself. Bamboo is never infected with pests and diseases during the growth process, because bamboo contains antibacterial and mite removal substances - bamboo kun. The national textile inspection agency has confirmed that the mortality rate of germs on bamboo fibers is over 73%, which is completely absent from other textile fibers.
7. Use - refreshing and comfortable
Drizzle the face with water, soak the bamboo fiber towel in the water, and wipe the face with lightly twisting the water. You will feel the water on your face dry off easily. At the same time, the face feels refreshed, soft and comfortable. This is the same feeling even if you don't use facial cleansers, soaps, or other cleansers. This is entirely determined by the special structure of bamboo fiber itself. Bamboo fiber is a porous fiber with large and small oval pores in its cross section, which can absorb a large amount of water in an instant, and its water absorption is 1.5 times that of cotton.
pure wool fabric
Pure wool fabrics are naturally soft in color and good in keeping warm, and are the first choice for making high-end suits and coats. There are more and more wool-like fabrics, and with the improvement of textile technology, they have reached a level that is difficult for most customers to identify, but the color, warmth, and hand feel are far less than pure wool fabrics. Here are a few ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothing and fabrics.
1. Touch feeling. Pure wool fabrics usually feel smooth to the touch, while long-haired fabrics are smooth to the touch along the fur, and tingling against the fur. As for the blended or purified fibers, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
Second, look at the color. The color of pure wool fabrics is naturally soft, bright and not out of date. In contrast, blended or purified fiber fabrics are either duller or shimmering.
Third, look at flexibility. Tighten the thing with your hand, and then release it immediately to see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabrics have a high rebound rate and can quickly return to their original state, while blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, and most of them have obvious wrinkles or slow recovery.
Fourth, the combustion method identification. Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. The smell of pure wool fiber is like burning hair, and the smell of chemical fiber fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the particles after combustion, the more chemical fiber components.
Five, single root identification. The hair of all animals is scaly under the microscope. If it is a long-haired fabric, just take a woolen wool and rub it a few times and it will move up or down (in order to master this skill, you can first take a hair and do Test), if it is an ordinary fabric, take a piece of yarn, cut two 2 cm pieces and dismantle them one by one, put them in the palm of your hand and rub them four or five times to see if they will move.
woolen raw materials
The animal hair fibers used in wool fabrics on the market generally include sheep wool, goat hair, camel hair and rabbit hair.
1. Sheep wool
The sweaters, woolen wool, felts, etc. that people use the most in their daily lives are mainly the wool that is densely grown on the sheep. In the weaving industry, due to the largest amount of sheep wool, "wool" has become the abbreviation of sheep wool.
The countries with the most sheep wool production in the world are Australia, the Commonwealth of Independent States, New Zealand, Argentina and China. The count and grade of wool are the basis for evaluating the grade and quality of wool. The higher the count, the better the quality, and the higher the grade, the worse the quality.
2. Goat hair
Goat hair is the coarse and dead hair cut from the goat hair. Generally, the fine hair on goat hair is very short and cannot be spun, and the coarse hair can only be used to make brushes and brushes, with the exception of mohair. Mohair is Angora goat hair, produced in Turkey's Angola Province, North America and South Asia. Elasticity, abrasion resistance and high strength, it is an ideal raw material for weaving jacquard blankets, plush, smooth coats, faux fur and other advanced fabrics. Hand-knitted mohair sweaters with thick needles are covered with soft silky and mist-like fibers, forming a noble, lively and rough style of clothing, which is deeply loved by people. The Zhongwei goat hair in northwest China also belongs to the mohair group. However, in the market, some people call the fluffy acrylic bulked yarn "mohair" for sale, causing misunderstanding. Such acrylic bulked yarn can only be called "imitation mohair" at best.
3. Alpaca wool
Alpaca, also known as "camel wool", has a fiber length of 20-40 cm and is white, brown, gray, black and other colors. Because 90% of it is produced in Peru, it is also called "Peruvian wool". Its two varieties, one is the fiber curl, with silver luster, the other is the fiber straight, less curl, with a luster similar to mohair, often blended with other fibers, as a high-quality material for making high-end clothing. The camel wool on the market is mostly products from Eastern Europe.
4. Rabbit fur
Rabbit fur is loved by people because of its lightness, thinness, softness, strong warmth retention and low price. It is composed of fine and soft down and coarse hair, mainly common rabbit and Angora rabbit hair, and the quality of the latter is excellent. The difference between rabbit hair and wool is that the fibers are slender and the surface is particularly smooth and easy to identify. Due to the low strength of rabbit hair, it is not easy to spin alone, so it is often blended with wool or other fibers to make knitwear, women's wool, coats and other clothing fabrics.
Pure wool concept and logo
In the market, people often see wool products with two marks of "pure wool" or "100% wool". Some people think that "pure wool" is equal to "100% wool", but this is not the case. Literally "pure wool" should be 100% wool. But in fact, in the production process, in order to improve the textile properties of the fiber and make the fabric more durable, some products often add some polyester or nylon non-wool fibers. The amount to be added is clearly stipulated in the national standard. So, we get it. Pure wool products are not 100% wool. If they are marked as pure wool products, non-wool fibers have been added within the specified range, so the price should be lower than that of 100% wool products.
In a word, in order to buy satisfactory wool textiles in the increasingly prosperous market, we can not only use the methods of looking, touching, asking, and comparing to identify, but also to analyze the price. Of course, the safest thing is to keep increasing your knowledge of the product.
Identify cashmere, alpaca, mohair
1. Cashmere
Cashmere comes from the bottom fine hair of goats, which grow on alpine grasslands, such as Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, Liaoning and other places in China. China is the world's largest producer of cashmere, with cashmere production accounting for more than 1/2 of the world's total output, of which Inner Mongolia's cashmere is the top grade. Cashmere fibers are characterized by being thin and soft. Its fabric is soft, smooth and waxy, and has a soft luster. Compared with wool fabrics of the same thickness, it is much lighter in weight and mostly in suede style. Generally speaking, light-colored cashmere coats are mostly derived from white velvet and are of better quality; while dark-colored cashmere coats are mostly derived from purple velvet or green velvet, which is of lower quality.
2. Alpaca wool
Alpaca wool comes from an animal called an "alpaca" (also known as an "albaca"), which grows primarily in the Peruvian Andes. The Andes Mountains are 4,500 meters above sea level, and the temperature difference between day and night is extremely large, -20 to -18 ℃ at night, and 15 to 18 ℃ during the day, with strong sunlight radiation, thin atmosphere, and cold winds. Alpacas living in such a harsh environment, of course, their hair can withstand extreme temperature changes. Not only is alpaca wool moisturizing, it is also effective against solar radiation, and the alpaca fiber contains a medullary cavity that can be seen under a microscope, so its thermal properties are better than wool, cashmere and mohair.
In addition, alpaca fiber has more than 17 kinds of natural colors: from white to black, and a series of different shades of brown and gray, it is the fiber with the richest natural color among special animal fibers. The "Albaka" we see in the market refers to alpaca wool; while "Suli" refers to a kind of alpaca wool and mostly refers to adult alpaca wool, with long fibers and beautiful color; often said The "Babe" is the wool of alpaca cubs, with relatively finer and softer fibers. Alpaca fabric feels slippery and provides excellent warmth.
3. Mohair
Mohair refers to Angora goat hair, mainly produced in South Africa, which is characterized by thicker fibers, less curl and good luster. The mohair fabric feels smooth and firm, and the woolen surface is full of luster. Mohair and alpaca fabrics are mostly short-sleeve styles.
An introduction to silk
Silk fabrics are generally divided into two categories: real silk and imitation silk fabrics. There are labels on silk fabrics, so how to identify the number code on the label? These numbers have a total of 5 digits. The first digit represents the raw material used in the product; the second digit represents the fabric structure of the product, followed by the serial number of the product. Before this number, capital letters are used to represent the origin of the product. From the serial number of silk products, The raw material and origin of the product can be identified.
The code name of silk raw materials: "1" represents real silk, including mulberry silk and mulberry interwoven varieties with mulberry silk accounting for more than 50%, double palace silk, and mulberry silk; "2" represents synthetic fiber; "3" represents natural fiber and short fiber. Fiber blending; "4" stands for tussah; "5" stands for rayon; "6" stands for two or more filaments interwoven, or filaments and short filaments interwoven; "7"" stands for quilts.
Silk product origin code: B is Beijing, C is Sichuan, D is Liaoning, E is Hubei, G is Guangdong, H is Zhejiang, J is Jiangxi, K is Jiangsu, M is Fujian, N is Guangxi, Q is Shaanxi, S is It is Shanghai, T is Tianjin, V is Henan, W is Anhui, and X is Hunan.
Identification of leather
"Leather" is a common word in the leather product market, and it is a customary name for natural leather to distinguish synthetic leather; in the concept of consumers, "leather" also has a non-false meaning. In fact, genuine leather is leather,