The so-called details determine success or failure, and there are indeed many ways to make the shape stand out. However, no matter how you layer and play with flowers, the only way to really get it right and avoid the loss of focus is always the details.
Therefore, it is more straightforward to pay attention to the texture and texture of the fabric than to worry about how to build a layer. From a distance, there seems to be no turbulence, but once you get close, you will definitely appreciate the taste of details.
Today's protagonist - herringbone pattern As one of the most recognizable classic fabric weaving styles, it adds a bit of fresh detail to thick-feeling winter fabrics. It is no exaggeration to say that if there is its blessing, this winter outfit will not be monotonous!
Herringbone Herringbone
Although there are many herringbone fabrics on the market today, you know that it has nothing to do with textile technology at first.
As early as around 500 BC, people in the Roman Empire developed a paving system called Viae Publicae, which it claimed to be world-class.
The structure used to build this luxury road is called "Opus spicatum", because its existence has significantly accelerated the efficiency of national travel and material transportation throughout ancient Rome.
At this time, people found that this V-shaped interlocking paving structure makes the road very stable and durable when subjected to force, and began to apply it to various fields, paving the way for the advent of herringbone fabrics.
After the awakening of the European Renaissance, textiles imitating this herringbone pattern gradually surfaced.
It is said that the herringbone fabric of the ancient Egyptian period was discovered in northern Italy, which is an important textile town. Later, this pattern rich in historical charm was injected into the clothing, and the sense of identity that the paving system was able to carry forward was restored. Gradually derived items such as herringbone wool/linen suits.
Humphrey Bogart
In Ireland, it is said that the herringbone cloth made of horsehair has been discovered around 600 BC. Whether true or not, traditional herringbone tweed has had a profound and lasting impact on the development of British dress culture, until now.
Classic fabric performance
The texture of the herringbone pattern on the fabric is quite expressive. It can be known from the translation of "herringbone", which means "herring bone", which is very similar to the bone arrangement of herring.
In fact, we can see it as a variation of the twill weave, but its twill does not extend in a single direction like Chino cloth, but periodically changes the direction of the weave structure, showing a herringbone-shaped diagonal stitch , which makes people look jagged at first glance.
Compared with ordinary twill, herringbone pattern undoubtedly conveys a more unique visual effect, especially in overhanging colors or yarns of different thicknesses.
The stronger the color contrast, the thicker the yarn, and the texture of the herringbone pattern is naturally further enlarged; otherwise, it is fine and firm, and the hand feels soft.
Among them, the two most representative and common herringbone suit fabrics are Solaro and tweed. Although most of them are made of wool yarn as the main raw material, the effects and orientations that can be woven are quite different.
Like Solaro, known as "probably the first technological fabric created by human beings", it was born in the colonial wave in the early 20th century.
At that time, in order to protect a group of soldiers from the sun from ultraviolet rays when they fought in the tropics, an Italian-born British doctor Louis Westenra Sambon fiddled with Solaro.
He believed that the khaki fabric, which is green on the outside and red on the inside, could protect the skin from UV rays and prevent the skin from getting sunburned. no sun protection).
The so-called green on the outside and red on the inside is actually because it is woven from warp and weft yarns of different colors, which causes the surface to show a chromatic effect in response to changes in light conditions, which is unique in traditional suit fabrics.
Solaro's classic custom yarn combination is olive green + brick red. Normally, it will show a khaki tone after the two colors overlap, sometimes reddish/greenish depending on the refraction of light. Combined with the herringbone weave, the suit looks like dark stripes.
In addition to its inexplicable relationship with sunlight, its loose weave, excellent drape, and smooth lines make Solaro a gentleman's summer outfit list.
As for the autumn and winter, Solaro, who feels cool, will "abdicate and give way" to the current affairs, and entrust the world of herringbone pattern to Tweed, which has the same profound historical background.
Originating from Scotland and Ireland, Tweed was originally a handmade fabric woven by farmers to withstand cold and wet climates.
In Scots, Tweel or Twill means twill.
In 1831, a London businessman received a letter from the Hawick Company, mistaking "Tweel" for "Tweed" and mistaking it for the fabric produced in the villages near the River Tweed , so these tweeds were popularized in the name of Tweed, which is still in use today.
Most of the garments it creates are woven with twill weave headed by herringbone pattern. The structure is soft, the hand feels rough and thick, slightly thorny, and the comfort is not high when wearing, but its durable performance still makes it highly sought after. .
Due to the variegated colors of natural tones and many colors, this traditional fabric is particularly conspicuous as a whole, combined with the herringbone pattern. Coupled with moisture resistance, wrinkle resistance and wear resistance, it is very suitable for casual-oriented items.
Especially in the past, the upper class in the West liked to wear tweed clothes to participate in country club parties, as well as outdoor activities such as hunting and golf. Both Prince Albert and the Duke of Windsor had a soft spot for tweed clothes. .
Like the well-known Norfolk Jacket (Norfolk Jacket), Shooting Jacket (shooting jacket), Hacking Jacket (riding jacket) and other hunting items, the most classic is the tweed version.
Selection and dressing advice
In my opinion, it is most suitable to start with low-key and high-quality herringbone tweed in autumn and winter.
It has a strong wool feel and is more suitable for winter sensibilities than solaro, which is close to worsted fabrics. Not to mention the positioning of the cold protection weapon handed down from history, the rough and variegated herringbone pattern is enough to think of a warm atmosphere.
It won't have the aggressive aura of a business suit, but rather the interesting details that others can see.
Especially in the seasons that need to be layered to keep warm and concave, this casual-oriented tweed + herringbone combination can live in harmony with other autumn and winter items.
It can maintain a delicate balance in the face of sweaters, sweaters, or corduroy and flannel with a strong sense of velvet.
If you want to be delicate and decent, you can choose worsted tweed with full luster, which not only maintains the original variegated flavor, but also is convenient and easy to care for.
For players who pursue retro British style, woolen herringbone tweed is a choice you can't miss. Every time I see a gentleman who participates in the Tweed Run, all kinds of thick and thin herringbone tweed items on his body simply increase the male hormones to a level.
However, I personally suggest that if you prefer woolen spinning, you should give priority to making single tops instead of suits. Especially for the blade warriors, the weaving structure of tweed + herringbone pattern is quite soft, so the pants are easy to leak and the lines are not ideal.
Of course, in addition to tweed, ordinary woolen materials with a higher gram weight are also a classic match for herringbone patterns. To a certain extent, the high gram weight will slightly increase the stiffness of the soft herringbone items, and it is especially suitable for the more selective items such as coats.
And the shirt also has a heavy flannel style with herringbone pattern, which can be easily loaded. The retro roving herringbone pattern shirt of about 9 ounces has a strong fabric without losing a soft feel.
As mentioned above, the specific orientation can be judged according to the thickness and variegation of the yarn. The presence of the roving herringbone pattern is naturally higher, and the contrasting color matching will show a strong visual effect. This kind of suggestion is only used in casual scenes.
If you want to maintain formality to take into account the requirements of business commuting, you can choose herringbone fabrics with less variegated colors. Originally, the stitching of the herringbone pattern has a certain sense of detail, and even conservative and stable color matching such as gray and navy blue will not be too monotonous.
Today, herringbone pattern has actually been found in all kinds of fabrics and single products, from light cotton to heavy wool. This kind of detailed texture that can show the styling without any painstaking effort is definitely the finishing touch to your autumn and winter outfits.